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Scout Adventure #11 // A Bustling City in the Middle of the Brazilian Rainforest

March 14, 2014 Libby Zay
manaus-brazil-river-boats.jpg

No roads lead to Manaus. Smack dab in the middle of the Amazon Rainforest, the only way to reach Brazil’s seventh-largest city is by boat or airplane.

manaus-brazil-tourism-boats
manaus-brazil-tourism-boats

The bustling boat docks are more akin to floating bus stations, with boats crammed in and brazenly advertising what direction down the river they are headed. Men carrying oversized packages load onto these ships via slim, wooden planks. I even saw one guy climb a ramp while precariously balancing a piece of wood with three open buckets of tar on his back.

manaus-brazil-woman-storm-copy
manaus-brazil-woman-storm-copy

The boats aren't the only colorful part of Manaus, though. Each building seems painted in a different hue.

manaus-brazil-market-shopping-cart
manaus-brazil-market-shopping-cart

We made a quick stop at the local market. From plantains to piranha, there was just about everything you can imagine for sale.

manaus-brazil-market-banana-pile
manaus-brazil-market-banana-pile

Banana consumption in Manaus must be like corn consumption throughout the U.S. There was a whole football-field-sized section of the market dedicated solely to the fruit. This man proudly sat next to one of the largest stacks.

manaus-brazilfish-market
manaus-brazilfish-market

Another expansive section is the fish market, which I'm told is the largest in Brazil. Inside, a hundred-or-so men decked out in white uniforms chop up, package, and sell fish that's been freshly plucked from the river. Some of the ones on the right were still squirming around.

manaus-brazil-by-bike
manaus-brazil-by-bike

Outside the market, I spotted this lonely bike. Later, we met a man selling maps in a park.

manaus-brazil-rivers-converge
manaus-brazil-rivers-converge

Manaus itself is a city of about 1.8 million people (more than Philadelphia!) that is located where the Rio Negro and the Rio Solimões converge, creating the swirl effect seen above. The dark, black-ish water is the Rio Negro, while the murkier, muddy-looking water is the Rio Solimões. It really was a sight to see.

manaus-brazil-rio-negro-reflection
manaus-brazil-rio-negro-reflection

I was there to cruise along the Rio Negro. The water is so dark it's like a sheet of glass reflecting everything on the surrounding banks. I kept trying to capture this mirror effect, but no pictures seem to really do it justice.

manaus-brazil-ariau-amazon-towers
manaus-brazil-ariau-amazon-towers

Manaus is a far out destination, but one that is well-loved by ecotourists. On one boat trip, we breezed by the Ariau Amazon Towers, a collection of wooden towers built in the rainforest that are connected by snaking, raised catwalks (not a design decision, but instead a way to avoid flooding as the river rises and falls). Our guide told us the room with the balcony pictured above used to belong to Bill Gates – which also might explain why there is a huge cell phone tower outside of the hotel, the only place where we could get any reception during the five-day trip.

In shutterbug, explorer Tags scout adventures, explore, capture, learn, photo essay, america, brazil
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Scout Adventure #1 // Visiting A Secluded Tribe in Brazil

July 11, 2013 Libby Zay
kambeba-tribe-brazil-women.jpeg

A group of Brazil’s Kambeba people, an indigenous tribe in the Amazon rainforest, are open and welcoming to people who want to learn more about their traditions and culture.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-village-from-rio-negro
kambeba-tribe-brazil-village-from-rio-negro

One way to reach them is by boat from Manaus, Brazil. Here's a view of cruisers from the Iberostar Grand Amazon disembarking to the village. The blue building is the town hall and the one trimmed in red is the church.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-sign
kambeba-tribe-brazil-sign

On the beach: FUNAI is the Brazilian government body that establishes and carries out policies relating to indigenous peoples.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-children
kambeba-tribe-brazil-children

In the town hall, the chief gave a short welcome speech while a guide translated. The children of the tribe listened intently whenever their chief spoke. There are only a little more than 50 people living in the village, most of which seem to be children. The chief and villagers joked that the only thing to do there was to make more children.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-flat-head
kambeba-tribe-brazil-flat-head

Our guide told us Kambeba actually means the “Flat Head” tribe, a name given by other indigenous nations. The Kambeba people used to have a ritual where they would compress their heads with wooden boards. This happened from birth until the desired form was made. The Kambeba people are working on documenting their history through several books, such as the one shown above.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-dance
kambeba-tribe-brazil-dance

The children performed two of their traditional dances for us. That man standing in the middle of the picture is the chief (yes, he’s wearing athletic shorts!).

kambeba-tribe-brazil-church
kambeba-tribe-brazil-church

After the introduction, the tribe led a tour of their village. Above is the church.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-ladder-house
kambeba-tribe-brazil-ladder-house

 This is the outside of a typical Kambeba home. All the houses were on stilts because the river has been known to rise 15 to 20 feet in a season.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-satellite-dish
kambeba-tribe-brazil-satellite-dish

Another house. I was trying to capture a collection of pots and pans hanging in neat rows just inside the door, but it was too dark inside. Note the satellite dish!

kambeba-tribe-brazil-school
kambeba-tribe-brazil-school

Next stop: the school. It was well equipped with books and other supplies, relatively speaking. The tourist dollars from cruise visitors probably helps. At the school, children are learning both their native language and Portuguese.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-acai
kambeba-tribe-brazil-acai

Many of the trees around town were labeled. Health nuts are probably jealous that these folks have açaí berries growing right in their backyard.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-necklaces
kambeba-tribe-brazil-necklaces

Another way Kambeba people make money is by crafting jewelry. The village courtyard has several gazebo-like stands set up in a circle.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-soccer-futbol
kambeba-tribe-brazil-soccer-futbol

This might be a remote village, but a love of soccer still found a way to get here (perhaps the satellite shown above helped!). Here the goal post was made out of branches — look closely between the two boys and you can see one of the posts.

kambeba-tribe-brazil-brooms
kambeba-tribe-brazil-brooms
In shutterbug, history buff Tags explore, contribute, learn, photo essay, america, brazil, photography, scout adventures
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I'm Libby Zay, a Baltimore-based writer and all-around curious person. I love roadside attractions, taking photos, and campfires. Let's earn some badges and explore together!

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