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The State of the Art Scene in Madrid, Spain

July 15, 2014 Sean McLachlan
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Madrid has always been famous for its thriving arts scene. Sadly, the Spanish capital got hit hard by the global financial crisis. For the past few years, madrileños have seen nightlife spots and galleries drop dead like victims of a plague. Thursday night, which had always been called “the first Friday”, became just another weekday with nothing special scheduled. Fridays and Saturdays became shorter, too, with more people choosing to stay home or stay out less.

(above) This giant frog, dubbed "The Frog of Fortune", appeared near Plaza Colón earlier this year. 

This had a terrible effect on Madrid’s art scene. While the larger galleries and institutions soldiered on, labors of love such as the arthouse cinema La Enana Marrón and the gallery/café Entrelíneas Librebar fell by the wayside.

Now all that is changing. There’s a new electricity in the air, or one might say that some of the old electricity is back. Thursdays are discernible from Wednesdays now, and the weekends are revving up again. While Spain’s economic woes continue, it seems there’s more money and interest in art.

The Classical sculpture gallery at the Museo Arqueológico Nacional.
The Classical sculpture gallery at the Museo Arqueológico Nacional.

The Classical sculpture gallery at the Museo Arqueológico Nacional.

Can't-Miss Museums

The biggest news for the mainstream arts scene is the expansion of the Fundación Mapfre. This is one of the many large exhibition spaces owned by major corporations, which perhaps out of a sense of guilt offer top-notch exhibitions for free. Fundación Mapfre has been a Madrid institution for many years and this year doubled its space by opening the Bárbara de Braganza exhibition building with 868 square meters (2,848 square feet) devoted to photography, and a small but interesting model ship museum.

Museum junkies will also want to check out the newly renovated Museo Arqueológico Nacional. Spain’s national archaeology museum was closed for several years and locals were beginning to wonder if it would ever reopen. Now it has, with a more open, better lit floor plan that shows off its extensive prehistoric collection, a sumptuous display of large Roman mosaics, and several rooms dedicated to medieval Spain’s mixture of European and Islamic cultures.

Lomographic photo of Retiro Park. Courtesy flickr user Ser… Ser…
Lomographic photo of Retiro Park. Courtesy flickr user Ser… Ser…

Lomographic photo of Retiro Park. (Courtesy flickr user Ser… Ser…)

Good Things Come in Small Galleries

A few smaller art spaces have cropped up recently, including The New Gallery, which is only a little more than a year old. It specializes in international photography exhibitions. For those who want to go old school, check out the Lomography store, where Soviet cameras that take distinctively off-color, tunnel-vision photos are still the tool of choice. There’s always an exhibition of photographs on display, they sell cameras and accessories, and they are one of the few places left that develops film.

Tipos Infames Libros y Vinos
Tipos Infames Libros y Vinos

Inside Tipos Infames Libros y Vinos. (Courtesy Tipos Infames Libros y Vinos)

Burgeoning Bookstore Cafes

Madrid has always been one of the literary centers of the Spanish-speaking world, and now there’s a trend of opening bookstore cafes to bring together two of Spain’s loves of chatting over coffee and reading. There are several good ones, including Librería Café El dinosaurio todavía estaba allí, where once a month English-speaking writers give readings and the owner herself is a poet. Atticus Finch is a cozy little place with a small but select collection of books in the front room and a café/art space in the back. Readings, talks, and storytelling sessions happen regularly here. There’s also the spacious Tipos Infames Libros y Vinos (Infamous Types Books and Wine). With a name like that how can you lose?

Microteatro Por Dinero
Microteatro Por Dinero

Still from a production at Microteatro Por Dinero. (Courtesy Microteatro Por Dinero)

A Larger-Than-Life Microtheater Scene

For those with confidence in the Spanish language, check out Madrid’s burgeoning microtheater scene. Microtheaters are tiny spaces that seat only a few dozen audience members or less. You’re often right up against the stage and immersed in the scene. You might even end up being part of it! Some good new microtheaters include Godot and La Pensión de las Pulgas. There’s also Microteatro Por Dinero, which thumbed its nose at the financial crisis by opening in the black year of 2009 and managing to remain in business. It’s housed in an old brothel and has retained its original floor plan with a series of tiny rooms, once rented by the hour, where it’s often just you and the actors.

Street art at Plaza Juan Pujol. The two posters on top are painted on cardboard. Late at night, you’ll sometimes glimpse street artists carrying a ladder as a well as paint. Getting their work in hard-to-reach places has become a badge of pride.
Street art at Plaza Juan Pujol. The two posters on top are painted on cardboard. Late at night, you’ll sometimes glimpse street artists carrying a ladder as a well as paint. Getting their work in hard-to-reach places has become a badge of pride.

Street art at Plaza Juan Pujol. The two posters on top are painted on cardboard. Late at night, you’ll sometimes glimpse street artists carrying a ladder as a well as paint. Getting their work in hard-to-reach places has become a badge of pride.

A Thriving Street Art Culture

Madrid has always had an active and skilled graffiti scene. While there are the usual ugly tags, there’s also impressive spray paint work as well as poster and sticker art. Urban art seems to thrive during bad economic times (think New York in the 70s and 80s). Some Spanish street artists have moved away from traditional spray paint and are experimenting with posters, stickers, and even pieces of painted cardboard. With the economy on the up and more shops opening, you’re beginning to see more commissioned street pieces, where shop owners have graffiti artists paint murals on their shutters.

Good sources for what’s going on in Madrid include esMadrid (in English and Spanish), Angloinfo (in English) and CineyTV (in Spanish).

In history buff, explorer Tags museum explorer, explore, learn, collection, europe, spain
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Scout Adventure #13 // Tales of War and Humanity in Belgium

April 13, 2014 Sean McLachlan
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Belgium has seen more than its share of warfare. This small country has the disadvantage of sitting between France and Germany, two historic rivals, and thus the Belgian countryside is filled with battlefields, memorials, and fortresses. In August 1914, Germany invaded France. Although Belgium was neutral, Germany decided to sweep through it in order to attack France from her less protected northern flank. Most of the French army was on its shared border with Germany, and going through Belgium allowed the Germans to almost reach Paris before the French and British could stop them. It was the start of the First World War, the biggest conflict the world had yet seen.

(above) A photo of the Tsarovich Alexei, son of Czar Nicholas II of Russia. Kaiser Wilhelm II of Germany kept this on his desk throughout his life, even when he ordered the invasion of Russia. The royal families of Germany, Russia, the United Kingdom, and Belgium were all related, but that didn’t stop the war. This photo is in the war museum in Belgium.

Last month, the extensive Royal Museum of the Armed Forces and Military History in the capital Brussels reopened its newly refurbished World War I wing to commemorate the events of 1914-1918. While Belgium lost 90 percent of its territory in the opening weeks, it never stopped fighting and “Brave Little Belgium” became a rallying cry for the Allied forces. A wealth of displays show life in the trenches and in the occupied towns, and highlight the atrocities the German army committed during the invasion.

Memorial at the site of the Christmas Truce football match at Ypres.
Memorial at the site of the Christmas Truce football match at Ypres.

Memorial at the site of the Christmas Truce football match at Ypres.

While the war saw brutal fighting in unimaginable conditions in the trenches, it also saw glimpses of humanity and fellowship. On Christmas 1914, the guns mostly fell silent. Along a stretch of trenches near the Belgian city of Ypres, the Germans started singing carols and poked a Christmas tree above the parapet of their trench. The British soldiers opposite them began singing carols too.

After a time, soldiers peeked over the parapets and waved to their supposed enemies. More soldiers came out of cover, and soon the Germans and English were trading presents and even organized a football match on No Man’s Land. The site of this match is now marked by a memorial. Football fans from around the world come to offer footballs in honor of those who started the Christmas Truce.

But for the most part, Ypres was a killing ground for four years of brutal warfare. The fields around Ypres are filled with the debris of that titanic battle, and the local farmers speak of an “iron harvest” every time they plough their land.

Sometimes this has fatal consequences. On March 19, an old artillery shell or grenade detonated at a building site where workmen were digging. The BBC reports two workers were killed. This happened on the same day I visited, and I was only a few kilometers away at the time. Hearing the news the next day brought the losses of that war much closer to me.

The St. Symphorien Military Cemetery.
The St. Symphorien Military Cemetery.

The St. Symphorien Military Cemetery.

The Belgian countryside has countless graveyards and memorials to the war dead. One of the most moving is the St. Symphorien Military Cemetery on the battlefield of Mons. For most of the war it stood behind German lines and right after the war it was used by the Allies, thus it contains the dead from both sides. I arrived there at dusk, when the sun was setting behind the screen of trees and the entire graveyard had that eerie blue-black hue of the end of day. Tucked away in a wooded corner of a farming district, it was silent except for the occasional birdsong. The gravestones were set out in orderly rows, both German and British side by side.

Grave of Private George Lawrence Price, last Commonwealth soldier to die in World War One.
Grave of Private George Lawrence Price, last Commonwealth soldier to die in World War One.

Grave of Private George Lawrence Price, last Commonwealth soldier to die in World War I.

The grave everyone wants to see is that of George Lawrence Price, a Canadian soldier who was killed on the last day of the war. The warring governments had agreed to an armistice to start at 11 a.m. on November 11, 1918. Just before the final ceasefire, Price and his unit were fighting the Germans for control of a village.  At 10:58 a.m., Price was shot and became the last Commonwealth soldier killed in World War I.

It seems strange that anyone would fight when they knew that peace was coming that day, but several hundred are known to have died on November 11. In one part of the line there was a terrible artillery bombardment, as if the gun crews wanted to get their last shots off before it was all over.

An American soldier, Henry Gunther, died during a charge ordered by his commander literally at the last minute, a pointless waste of the life of a man who, ironically, was of German descent. Gunther charged a German machine gun position and the Germans, who knew peace was just a minute away, waved him off and fired warning shots. When Gunther kept coming, they had no choice but to shoot to kill. He is often called the last casualty of the war.

But that’s only the Western narrative. It was a world war, and fighting continued in the Middle East and Africa for some weeks before word could spread to all units that peace had been declared. No one knows who the last casualty of World War I was, but most likely it was an Arab, a Turk, or an African, killed in the war Europe started.

It wouldn’t be long before “The War to End All Wars” proved to be only the first of two world wars (... so far). Hitler invaded Belgium in 1940 in a sweeping move to take France. This time it wasn’t just a strategic decision, it was part of Germany’s plan to take conquer all of Europe.

Once again the world rallied to fight German expansionism, and once again Belgium became the battleground for greater powers. The fiercest fighting occurred around the town of Bastogne in December 1944. The U.S. Army had liberated the region but the Germans launched a surprise offensive now known as the Battle of the Bulge. A large section of the American army was cut off at Bastogne and had to fight against an army twice its size for a week before it could be saved.

The teddy bear who survived a German artillery bombardment.
The teddy bear who survived a German artillery bombardment.

The teddy bear who survived a German artillery bombardment.

This epic struggle is commemorated in a new Bastogne War Museum, just opened in March 2014. Numerous displays, videos, and interviews with survivors tell the story not just of the battle but of all Belgium during the war. It was interesting to see that collaboration by Belgian Nazis and the rise of the Belgian Fascist “Rex” Party was not overlooked. In one video interview, an elderly woman remembers that during the war she swore at a Belgian Nazi in a shop and was stopped by a German officer. When she told him that she hated those people, he shrugged and said, “We don’t like them either, but they’re useful to us.”

The museum is large and detailed, taking the visitor through military and civilian life during the invasion, occupation, and liberation. One touching display case includes several everyday objects each with their own story. A teddy bear played a small part in the Battle of the Bulge. When the Germans started bombarding Bastogne,  a family that was talking to some American soldiers hurried for shelter. Once they were safe in a cellar, the little girl of the family realized she had forgotten her teddy bear. Some brave G.I. rushed back to her house amidst exploding shells and retrieved it. Luckily both the soldier and the bear survived.

These are only some of the thousands of stories from the world wars that can be uncovered on a trip to Belgium. Anyone with an interest in history will find this little country a great destination. Not only does it have hundreds of world war sites, it also boasts some 400 castles, several world-class museums, the famous battlefield of Waterloo, and of course good beer. What more does a history buff need?

All images copyright Sean McLachlan. This trip was supported by Visit Belgium. All opinions are my own.

In storyteller, history buff Tags museum explorer, explore, learn, story, europe, belgium
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5 Weird Museums Only Found in Vienna

March 11, 2014 Sean McLachlan
globe-museum-vienna.jpg

Vienna is justly famous for its museums. The Kunsthistorisches Museum is one of the biggest in Europe and has huge galleries of Dutch and Italian masters as well as one of the best medieval art collections in the world. Other attractions such as the Leopold Museum showcase the art of Gustav Klimt and other important Viennese artists. Besides these major attractions, Vienna has many odd little museums that are often overlooked but well worth a visit if you have a special interest or some extra time. The Viennese are museum crazy! Here are five of the strangest they’ve come up with.

(above) A display at The Globe Museum in Vienna (Where is Your Toothbrush, flickr).

Esperanto
Esperanto

The Esperanto Museum

Ĉu vi parolas Esperanton? Do you speak Esperanto? It’s the world’s most popular artificial language, spoken by hundreds of thousands of dedicated adherents who believe that a universal, easy-to-learn language shared by everyone would help solve many global problems. You’ll learn about the history of Esperanto from its origins in 1887 and its spread across the globe. You can even see cartoons in Esperanto and take an interactive quiz that will show you just how quickly you can learn this universal language.

Globe
Globe

The Globe Museum

Upstairs from the Esperanto Museum is the Globe Museum, fascinating for globetrotters and the only one of its kind in the world. Vienna was one of the centers of early globe production as European explorers sailed around the world in search of wealth and knowledge. You’ll see some rare examples here such as the 16th century terrestrial and celestial globes made by Mercator.

In the early days of exploration, globes were luxury items and were often works of art. A visit here will enrich your understanding of how the world became a progressively smaller and better-acquainted place.

One ticket covers the Esperanto Museum, the Globe Museum, and the interesting but not particularly weird Papyrus Museum.

snowglobe
snowglobe

The Snow Globe Museum

The Austrians are big on snow globes. You see them for sale everywhere, especially during the Christmas fairs, so why not have a Snow Globe Museum? This exhibition space, associated with a snow globe manufacturer, has a dazzling array of snowy spheres that will make even the most hardened traveler smile with kitschy delight. You’ll even learn how they get the snow inside!

(Oh, and in case you’re wondering, “snowglobe” is "globo de neĝo" in Esperanto)

Crime
Crime

The Crime Museum

Lots of cities have a crime museum and I find myself attracted to their garish displays the same way that I slow down when I pass a traffic accident. (Don’t sneer, you do that too.) The Crime Museum in Vienna is the most extensive I’ve seen, and gets extra points for thoroughness and gore. A series of large rooms takes you through the history of crime in the city, from serial killers, assassins, pimps, missing persons, arsonists, and much more. There are also displays on police work and punishment. The section on crime and punishment under the Nazi era is especially gripping. You don’t think of such mundane things as shoplifting happening under the Third Reich. Unfortunately the descriptions are written only in German but the front desk will give you a summary in English, and the displays are pretty easy to understand in any case.

This is not the museum for the faint of heart. There are several graphic photos of murder victims, which are either educational or exploitative depending in your opinion, along with a few preserved body parts.

condom
condom

The Condom Museum

It’s one of those everyday, disposable objects we don’t think about much, but we owe a lot to the condom. Safe sex has arguably changed society more than, say, nuclear missiles, yet how often do we think about the origins and development of the condom? This museum, located in a condom specialty shop, will stretch your knowledge until you are overflowing with facts. It may be small, but size doesn’t matter because it succeeds on style. The exhibition goes from the earliest condoms made of sheep’s intestines through odd variations to the modern condom we know and love/loathe. An added bonus is that the Condom Museum donates its profits to AIDS prevention.

In explorer Tags austria, europe, museum explorer, explore, learn, collection
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I'm Libby Zay, a Baltimore-based writer and all-around curious person. I love roadside attractions, taking photos, and campfires. Let's earn some badges and explore together!

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